soooo, of course all the information we would ever need is online, available to the public. brilliant.
i've literally just pasted one of the documents and added the menswear trends after each sector.
feel free to highlight/edit/whatever to it to make it easier to comprehend! xxx
Like a vibrating heart, fashion’s energy irrigates the season with a determination for change. In the din of the present, the season adopts an everything-is-possible freedom, without dispersing in multiple directions. It foils the instinct to fall back, boldly committing to anti-anonymous fabrics, thinking positively in terms of reality and promising silhouettes with exceptional alliances between masculinity and femininity, casualness and tailoring, discretion and extravagance. It throbs with clear stances and strives to work around constraints, to invent in a new way, to create with ingenuity, to cleverly imagine new relationships between shape and material. It plays with ruses of aesthetics and colour to bring genres closer together, plotting sustainable alliances and ringing out a fully aware utopia. It stimulates contrasts between massiveness and fluidity, distorts rigidity to jeopardise, with a certain irony, nobility and a vintage approach, to unblock the resistances between rawness and glamour, to vibrate with an inner or outer fantasy, all by choice, emotion and enthusiasm. The autumn winter 201011 fabrics passionately stimulate a taste for transience, and structure fashion with a powerful and casualised heart.
RudIMeNTARy
From a world lying fallow, extracting unrefined elements, almost raw materials, to construct a solidly optimistic future. Building alliances between roughness and refinement with raw and industrial aspects, natural and virtuoso degradations with resolutely lively alterations.
continuing to invest in ecological and socially- responsible initiatives throughout the manufacturing chain. Paying particular attention to non-visible solutions, recycled synthetics and naturals, clean dyes and treatments. Taking advantage of technological advances to elaborate a more serene tomorrow.
giving priority to physical intervention on fabrics with compressed, boiled, ‘over-cooked’ and flattened woollens. Rounded boxy volumes with a softened materiality, firmly-set weaves, compact broadcloths, stiffened moleskins and velvets
and irregular visuals. Diving into weighty resistance, into density with raw handles and visuals. Clashing blends, agglomerated decorations, blurred colours, knops subtle blooming like rockery florals on low-key tweeds.
visual asperity for a warm austerity. Glorifying imperfection and plunging into non-plain tones. Generously mixing opposites. Composing with the nuances found in mist and earth, in gusts
of soot, in ingenious erosions. Playing with the subtlety of alterations, engineered washings and coatings for a deep mattness. Thoroughly washing to blend patterns and compromise neatness. Vibrating surfaces with heavy ripplings, with uncurled bouclettes, torn-out mohairs and dishevelled furs.
covering with a mineral rawness and industrial corrosions, playing with lead lights on silks soaked through to the fibre, white hot reddish denims and woollens. Meteor shards and glints of black light in heavy embroideries and jacquards.
Dusty specks of rust and glints of tarnished copper lend motion to volume.
NObIlITy TO THe TeST
At a time when ‘right now’ is the operative word, inventing a plush and languid idleness. Defying the temptation to turn inward, to a regressive nostalgia, in order to vanquish a wait-and-see attitude. Cultivating ambiguity and delighting in the uncertainties between masculinity and femininity, between the boudoir and the fumoir, between retro and virtual. As a disruptive element, lending a gratingness to reassuring visuals, mocking the tried
and true and gaily taking a new spin on established principles of elegance.
savouring inactivity with nobility and derision. Growing languid in ‘dressing gown’ silks and jacquard thicknesses. Graciously covering up in pyjama flannels and tired decorations. Enjoying a suave comfort in exhausted weighty silks and worn-out chenille. Adorning oneself in a faded lustre, in supple silks and imitation leathers,
to sparkle with a waning flamboyancy.
heading-off on the path of a disturbing nonchalance. Incised gleaming velvets, aging the most noble of fabrics. Unravelling shirtings and coatings.
unhooking the curtains and disappearing with impunity into the decorations. Sinking into an aesthetic of shabby furnishings. Covering up in used ornamental jacquards, in dusty brocades, in faded flowers, embroideries and laces.
cultivating ambiguity and vanquishing received ideas. Classic patterns and strict forms deformed as if through an alcoholic haze. Blending, to the point of fusing, womenswear and menswear. Crisscrossing, to the point of confusion, geometries with disturbing layers. Playing on unidentifiable know-hows, to create troubling hesitations between knits and wovens, embroideries and jacquards, formalwear and casualwear. Delighting in paradox, to champion a noble nonchalance with exceptional denims and imitation denims.
eXCeSSIVe
Leaving the lukewarm waters of indecision and throwing oneself into the extreme. Saying yes to the most outlandish dreams, the wittiest exaggerations, and the most vertiginous creations for a sensational fight against anything low-profile. Confidently showing off with glinting shine, immoderate size, deafening decoration. Expressing oneself without any concession and championing an energetic and contagious enthusiasm.
heightening dimensions and playing with showy fantasies. Abusing overly marked weaves and gigantic hand-knits. Enlarged ribs in corduroys and stripes and checks with overstepped widths in shirts and coats. Exaggerated volumes in mohairs and fake furs with electric intensities. Amplified structures with puffed-up quiltings, outsized embroideries and jacquards. Accumulating the intensity of colours in ultra-matte vibrations. Strengthening the contrasts in decorations for ultra-extroverted clothing.
Showing oneself off in the light of day, as if in the depth of night, with exacerbated shine. Flaunting oneself without complex, with bright fabrics, lacquered polish, lipstick-like shine. Adorning oneself in overheated surfaces,
in glamorous synthetics, in booming laces, in delirious appliqués. Exhibiting oneself in fabrics lacquered like bold metal, covering oneself in metallic candy wrappers, in showy mirrors and overly plastic reflections. Making oneself inimitable and borrowing from patterns with an almost outrageous expressionism, - too nasty,
too bizarre, too unreasonable.
SIleNT
In the surrounding uproar, taking pause and catching one’s breath. Allowing oneself to be accompanied by textile pulsations with a sensory and welcoming protection. Being born away by the silent energy of malleable materiality and substantial fluidity. Discovering the enthusiasm of a calm and luminous energy.
bundling up in supple heaviness and structuring silhouettes with a great generosity. Finding protection in the noble weight of double weaves and dense milanos, either plain or decorated. Welcoming a conciliating thickness with an undisguised pleasure in majestically curved quiltings, in layers with a purposeful lightness.
fully plunging into the comfort of indulgent overcoats with massive and muscular fabrics and knits, and woollens, cottons and silks with a botoxed elasticity. Adorning oneself in the benevolence of technical and functional visuals, and wrapping oneself in luggage-style structures with supple behaviours.
yielding to the pleasure of angelically soft, frothily light fabrics. Rolling oneself up in a textile caress, and melting into thick alpacas and cashmeres, into foamy knits with evolving thicknesses,
in fabrics with a feathery shiver.
without ever constricting motion, creating a wardrobe that is fluid yet substantial, with compact interlocks and heavy twills, in silk or cupro blends. Lending character to austerity all in fineness, with crepes of a restrained dryness, with a sensual bite and a contained springiness. Without going to limpness, gently defying rigidity by opening up articulations to suppleness, through quiltings, embroideries and jacquards with architectural volumes. Ingeniously taming rigour right up to patterns with fragmented, exploded contorted geometeries.
clearly benevolent, light reveals itself to be a generator of calm. It radiates delicacy and lightness with technologically innovative featherweights, ethereal reflections, auspicious mirrors. Light serenely reveals the subtlety of matte/shine and phantom weaves for a biting, anti-anonymous discretion.
SEDUCTION
THe FANCy ANd FluId uNIVeRSe
The Seduction universe imposes its appetite for fantasy to create a season where sophistication grows either casual or flamboyant. Woollens and exuberant long hairs, warmed up embroideries and spectacular jacquards boldly conquer coat weights. For everyday, silks grow more tender. Hyper comfortable and tactile, they take on woollen visuals without letting go of their soul of preciousness. They allow themselves to be faded with grace, to be patinated with art. Decors invoke heritage, and play with a furnishings vocabulary, always with perfectly updated behaviours and handles. But winter also sets aside a favoured spot for extreme, unbridled fantasy with shine, colour and too much of everything!
COATS: EXPRESSIVE AND GENEROUS
excessive: extroverted bouclettes and long-hairs, carded blanket-style, bold and lively large mohair checks, giant weaves or motifs for voluminous and lightweight jackets and coats. Blurry looks with almost coarse visuals and tamed handles blended with effect yarns, with roving, thrown yarns or torn-out hairy yarns. supple: more open textures, weaves and embroideries with thick yarns and lightweight grounds for supple structures. Washed finishings to soften and relax. embroidered: embroideries with bouclé, tweedy and irregular yarns, wool/synthetic needle-punched fabrics and quiltings on felted bases and vigoureux woollens, for spectacular coats. coated: lacquerings, colour coatings and prints enliven fancy tweeds.
DRESSES AND ENSEMBLES: PATINATED FLAMBOYANCE AND EASY-TO-LIVE SUPPLENESS
worn silkies: hold without stiffness, with supple and softened satins and failles. A relaxed fluidity, with washed crêpes and mousselines. ‘Lazy’ behaviours with cosy wool guipure, truly supple lace. Patinated decorations, aged jacquards, an eroded, mineral, almost geological spirit. Embroideries treated like sportswear: coated, daubed with paint, treated coarsely.
menswear influence: a skilfully maintained ambiguity between wool and silk, through chiné aspects, suiting visuals set off with silvery yarns or scattered with glints of light, tie jacquards or stripes or severe wool lace. furnishings influence: jacquards, embroideries or lace with enlarged patterns, document jacquards that are simplified, overloaded or worn. Crushed, incised, embroidered velvets; quiltings like dressing gowns. exacerbated shine: a season of bronzed or extreme shine, with flamboyant coppers, metallic or transparent sequins, like jewels on woollens and jacquards.
TOPS: EXTREMES
vaporous discretion: knit or woven wool voiles to envelope like a cloud, chiné twills, tweedy etamines, fluid and ethereal suiting aspects. a touch of the sumptuous: ultra-shiny fluidity as in jerseys lacquered or coated with gold or copper, voiles pulverised with gold or platinum, colour-oxidised or metallised lace.
DECORATIONS: SHIFTED AND REINVENTED
Heritage, urban or natural influences and pixellised, recoloured or hybrid treatments, whether enlarged or shrunken, lend character to patterns and make them stand out. ambiguous: unusual hybrids in prints, embroidery and lace. Unrecognisable furs and animal skins, brush strokes like feathers, imaginary forests and hidden birds, wood effects like moirés, witty trompe l’oeil. urban calligraphy: a photographic spirit with black and white shots, a poster-style, graffiti and metropolitan scenes, luminous abstractions, geometrics diffracted in neon colours.
historic: furnishing ornamentals and florals, in a tapestry, baroque or wallpaper style, florals and still-life’s like old master paintings.
distinction
THe elegANT, FORMAl ANd TAIlORed uNIVeRSe
The Distinction universe delights in ambiguity, playing on ever-closer connections between casualwear and citywear, discretion and fantasy. Fabrics grow in consistency for a silhouette with contrasting weight, where the coat is the key item. Suits grow very soft, light or fluid; fine wools are adorned in glazed gleam. Discreet semi-plains, assumed colour or oversize yarn dyeds all find full expression in shirts, suitings and overcoats, initiating combinations that are low-key or jazzed up by micro/macro plays on scale.
JACKETS AND OUTERWEAR: CASUALISATION & IMPORTANCE OF KNITS
supple: the luxury of cashmeres, wools and alpacas in chic or casual versions. Double-faces skilfully softened and elegantly relaxed, surfaces with extreme brushings to blur patterns, washed broadcloths, British-style cardeds with faded aspects. Knit comfort with felted and supple interlocks in trompe l’œil suitings for deceptively classic coats. excessive: a sensation of thickness with compressed knits, crushed semi-plains, checks melting into the material, boiled knits. Augmented structures and patterns, giant weaves, plain but outsized checks, enlarged tweedy looks and throwns. Handles with an exacerbated roughness, prickly authentics with raw aspects. shapely: double crêpes with an elegant roundness and stretch combed double weaves for coats and jackets allying a retro femininity and contemporary comfort. Knit versions feature dense milanos and ottoman effects in either wool or a techno-chic synthetic blend. low-profile performance: perfectly waterproof wools and cottons, membraned flannels and suitings, invisible or barely crunchy coatings for city jackets and coats.
SUITINGS: FULLY DISCREET
quasi-plain: plains with subtle imperfections, milled irregular throwns, micro-tweedy looks, wool/linen blends, dotted yarn-dyed saxony. Streaked chinés and visuals that disturb tiny houndstooth and blur Prince of Wales. In extremely fine versions (super 100 and beyond), wools have almost invisible stripes and checks. softness: featherweight flannels that melt in the hand or ultra-comfortable stretch, cosy nobles. Misty tennis stripes, faded large checks, brushed herringbones. Warm cotton/wool or smooth pure cottons with fine emerisings right up to true velvets. refined gleam: ultra-smooth wool or silk blends with natural or exacerbated shine, lustrous flannels and affirmed lacquerings right up to varnished effects. matte fluidity: wool and viscose with a matte liveliness, fine and springy crêpes, wools in supple covert weaves.
SHIRTS AND POLOS: NEUTRAL OR LUMINOUS
semi-plain: the fineness of twist cottons and mercerised cottons in chiné or irregular versions for almost plains, or more relaxed stripes and checks. Neutral end-on-ends and Prince of Wales with a suiting influence. casual chic: warmed up twills like luxurious flannelette with cashmere or alpaca blends, fines emerisings with a peachskin handle. Patterns more leisure-style than banker-style, with pyjama stripes, or ‘country week-end’ checks!
slender simplicity: stripes and checks traced with an architect’s pen on grounds of luminous whiteness. plays on scale: either closely-set stripes, micro-gingham, and punctuated dashes, or enlarged and hollowed checks, outsized satin bands, spaced-out pleats. masculine code polos: tie-inspiration jacquards, muffled stripes in darkened colours, smooth or piqué mercerised shine.
LININGS: LIKE A TRUE HIDDEN DECORATION
Printed or jacquard enlarged motifs, enlarged matte/shiny stripes, intense colours or reflecting satins.
Menswear: ILLuMInATIng THE nATuRAL
Harsh aspects for coats with a rocky or stone aspect. Sturdy cottons for casualised suits. Ceremonial damasks or pleats for ultra-chic shirtings to put to the test. Featherweight techniques to layer like coloured petals. Colourful polo knits. Elegant clothing for tough guys!
Menswear/womenswear: AMBIguITIES
Playing on proportions and masculine or feminine details to compose wardrobes for non-identical twins. A dialogue between a Prince of Wales in combed wool and one in silk. Inverted roles between shirting cottons and tie silks, confabulations between backgrounds and patterns or between a neatly gridded fluidity and an unstable geometry.
Menswear: unTunIng ELEgAnCE
A formal silhouette that isn’t as coordinated as it seems. Combining calm neatness and thrown and tweedy contrasts with blurred imperfections. An elegance unbalanced by shirtings with stripes that are a bit too large, a bit too asymmetrical, a bit too contrasting.
RELAX
THe CASuAlweAR, SpORTSweAR ANd jeANSweAR uNIVeRSe
The Relax universe composes harmonious, warm and enveloping sportswear for silhouettes with soft, massive lines. Cottons and denims grow misty and warm up, adopting woolly handles and visuals. They are anchored in eco-friendly developments and adorned in a reassuring thickness and velvety or soft handles. Weights increase to target coats and tailored pieces, both woven and knit.
Coatings and finishings lend a dustiness to patterns or favour patinated shine and marked signs of wear. Influenced by homewear, shirtings and tops grow cosy.
TAILORED PIECES: CHARACTER
hyper materiality: heavyweight cottons for sportswear overcoats. Matt, compact, smashed and very brushed moleskins; dense fabrics right up to a crunchy stiffness; luxuriously thickened denims in wool blends or with brushed interiors. outerwear knits: compact or enveloping. Double faces, cotton or wool interlocks, firmly-set or blocked knits with vigoureux aspects. Thickened fleece, generous bouclés and plushes to wear on the outside or as a reassuring lining, like a Canada coat.
strengthened protection: ‘ready to age’ waxed waterproof cottons; coated fabrics to stand up to tough conditions; rubberized textiles marking the passage of time. Supple and reassuring shearlings and skins or deliberately artificial varnished shines and crocodile aspects.
TROUSERS: SOFTENED OR BRUTALISED
sportswear softness: extremely supple moleskins, softened denims, lyocell/cotton blends for more suaveness, supple density with thick, cocoon-cottons, either brushed or emerised, and knits in a jogging spirit. A smooth and tender elegance with satins, peachskin gabardines, with barely whitened, washed surfaces, soft to look at and to touch.
misty: cottons enriched with multi-colouristic treatments, dyes and overdyes that can be washed out, tone-on-tone colour scrapings. A very subtly coloured neutrality that creates a certain murkiness in weaves with chiné yarns, discreet herringbones and twills, masculine micro-patterns and flannel aspects. Velvets and corduroys blurred with slight yarn irregularities and suiting patterns veiled in greyish or brown dust. beauty of wear: fabrics that are bullied, with marked finishings and washing-outs. Raw cottons, deliberately wrinkled and boldly washed-out velvets or tartans, denims dragged in the mud, ashes or sand. An eroded shine revealed through use, surfaces that grow lustrous with wear, and light, semi-matte rubberizings and waxings.
SHIRTINGS: CONTRASTING WEIGHTS AND WARM HANDLES
wintry lightness: warm voiles that are either semi-plain or tartan, XXL checks on featherweights, a wink at homewear in light flannels, and checked and chequered reversible tubulars. warming thickness: from Scotland to Canada, overshirts in wool or washed or brushed cotton.
KNIT TOPS: ULTRA COMFORTABLE
augmented: raw visuals, yarns with an oversized effect and thrown, knopped, irregular yarns. Plays on enlarged stitches like weaves, thick gauge yarns with a handknit aspect for round, voluminous sweatshirts or sweaters. warm and cosy: a thick, stretch softness with velvets and terry velvets, ultra-supple and dense blends of wool, angora and cashmere. Brushed jerseys and fleeces for light but covering close-to-the-body tee-shirts, piqués and small flat ribs in wool and viscose. A wool influence for more irregular chinés, fancies that are shrunken, semi-boiled or partially felted.
PRINTS
closely-set: all-overs generously filled in with dots, geometric and tie motifs, mini figuratives with soft or overdyed colourways. patinas: an erased ornamental spirit, abstract splotches, signs of corrosion, mineral textures on velvets or woolly voiles with washed aspects.
naive: a wallpaper inspiration, from English florals to antique tapestries.
Menswear/ womenswear: CASuAL TAILoRIng
A suit? Yes, but in washed wool. A shirt? Yes, but one that is chiné and soft like a T-shirt with a touch of cashmere. An overcoat? Yes, but in soft thick cotton or denim. Introverted or mixed, city and sportswear codes continue to clear new ground.
Menswear: uRBAn LuMBERjACk
Sturdy sportswear, urban and mineral, felted and tarred, in compact and warm cotton or wool. Checkerboards and checks in city colours for overshirts or parkas, hairy fleeces, virile furs for linings and urban Canada coats.
pulsation
THe SpORT, TeCHNICAl ANd peRFORMANCe uNIVeRSe
The Pulsation universe promises an equally high-performant and seductive winter. Research zeroes in on high-impact visuals and sensual handles, without ceding ground in terms of technology or environmental respect. Fabrics and knits are visibly quite sporty, high-performant, synthetic and dyed in bright colours with strong contrasts. They flaunt a real fashion conviction, ultra-feminine and ultra-masculine, cutting-edge, to combine sports with a fashion attitude. They skilfully become very chic by augmenting silk or wool nobles with extreme functions. They freely capture light in cold metallic shine or opulent bronze and coppery tones.
ACTIVE SPORTS: VISIBILITY AND PERFORMANCE
visual impact: active sportswear open to fantasy with breathing/water-resistant bondings favouring colour contrasts, with ultra-bright backs or printed membranes. performant fineness: lightened membranes, double or triple layers that retain an extreme suppleness, in knits or wovens, for a functional windproof, waterproof and/or breathable fineness. Featherweight waterproofs grow lighter and lighter, enlivened with nearly invisible surface effects, with micro ripstops to use alone or wadded for weightless down jackets.
multi-stretch: bi-stretch wovens, body-sheathing fleeces and brushed knits for a warm, close to the body comfort, but also for intermediary clothing such as city-sports jackets or vests. luggage style: high-resistance basketwovens, matte and solid lightweight canvas, visibly synthetic aspects for a visual and real protection, to play off in contrast.
FASHION SPORTS: FEMININITY AND ELEGANCE
spectacular technology: from hyper shine to ultra mattness, convictions are extreme. On the one hand are intensely varnished waterproofs and windbreakers, high-glamour fluid satins, shot looks as precious as make-up. On the other hand are weightless fabrics with totally absorbed reflections, ethereal rubberised materials, matte smooths with peachskin handles, a cosmetic spirit. Directly inspired by fashion and washed silks, waterproofs with pre-worn aspects and used or poorly ironed glazes, right up to informal, disorganised and wrinkled textures in metal blends for surfaces expressing freedom.
natural looks: synthetics play on imitations that rival the real thing, with cotton looks or chiné or flannelised wool aspects. Grains of animal skin or leather, right up to slightly venomous imitations in dark crocodile or snake. In menswear and womenswear, real wool blends are bonded and multilayered, contrasting city visuals on the outside with sportswear well-being on the inside, with synthetic knits or silvery membranes. A touch of luxury in coated silk blends, waterproofed or bonded with a membrane.
KNIT TOPS
warming/tactile: the natural comfort of climatic and functional thermals thanks to the softness of brushed or cotton backs, for fast-dry light turtleneck pullovers. dynamic/visual: synthetic and truly sporty knits with honeycombs, 3D, enlivened by textured jacquards, and engineered fantasy right up to large repeats, set off with stimulating fluorescent colours.
LINGERIE
extreme softness: the fineness and softness of Modal® blends ennobled with wool or silk. Two-way stretch with creamy handles that are made matte, antibacterial and fast dry. glamour: matte or satiny flesh tones, highly-refined flowered or ornamental stretch lace.
RESPONSIBLE PRODUCTION
harmless finishings: ‘clean’ washings, non-toxic waterproof coatings, clean dyes or absence of dyes with natural alpaca blends. recycled: the palette broadens in knits and wovens with polyamides, polyesters, cottons and wools.
Menswear: MARInE PoWER
Regulation blues and stripes, not quite in conformance, for city or mountain sailors. Protecting wools are combined with high-performance techniques. Naturally thermal felts, peacoat broadcloths and flannels are now waterproof. Membranes, breathable/waterproof and wind-resistant fabrics, are matt and woven like work clothes. Gummed fabrics resemble rubber boots.
